Should I Steam My Hair?
What Steaming Does?
Steaming your hair forces water into the hair shaft causing it to absorb more water and do so quickly. After steaming, hair tends to feel softer as it is very saturated and the heat from the steam will encourage more conditioning agents to adhere to the hair.
Why I don’t recommend steaming for everyone!
When hair absorbs water it stretches. Healthy hair can stretch up to 30% without damage however anything above 30% will result in tiny fractures along the hair shaft. Hair is naturally hydrophobic(water hating) for this reason. The 18- Mea which forms part of the cuticle(outer layer of hair) makes healthy hair hydrophobic (water hating). Think of it as your hair’s natural defense. It prevents hair from absorbing too much moisture from the atmosphere and slows down how quickly water enters the hair cuticle “The hydrophobicity of the hair is possible thanks to the 18-MEA lipid layer... When wet, virgin hair can be stretched by 30% of their original length without damage; however, irreversible changes occur when hair is stretched between 30% and 70%. Stretching to 80% causes fracture.[4] Hair is porous and damaged hair is intensely so. Water absorption causes the hair shaft swelling”(Gavazzoni Dias M. F.) When hair takes up too much moisture it both weakens and damages the hair.
Processed Hair
If you have relaxed, bleached or color treated hair your hair is going to be more porous as these processes damage the cuticle and removes the 18-MEA from the hair. With the removal of the 18 Mea, your hair is more likely to take up water easily and do so in amounts that can cause stress on the hair shaft inflicting further damage. Processed hair tends to be drier than non-processed hair but the problem is not that it is not absorbing enough water. The real issue is that water is escaping quickly through the damaged cuticle. Therefore the focus should be trying to slow down water loss not forcing your hair to become over-satuated.
Porosity Level
High Porosity & Normal Porosity
If your hair is highly porous already. It is not a good idea to try to force more water in the hair shaft via steaming as that will only increase your porosity further. If your hair falls within the normal range then it absorbs the water it needs without force. Therefore it is unnecessary.
Low Porosity
If your hair is very low porosity, you may try using steam to get your hair to absorb more water. However, you must do so with caution as you don’t want to overdo it and cause damage. The steam will not only cause your hair to absorb more water but the heat will result in more cationic conditioner attaching or “adsorbing” to the surface of your hair. Personally, I believe there are better and safer options like using rinse out conditioners/ deep conditioners with lot of humectants, or using natural gels containing polymers like flax, pectin, xanthan, or guar gum that hold on to water that will keep your hair hydrated.
There are many people who believe that their hair is “low porosity”, when in fact they are struggling with product build up. Product build-up will prevent your hair from absorbing moisture. Before you run out and purchase a steamer, clarify your hair to be sure that you are actually low porosity. Hair with product build behaves like low porosity hair.
I have used steam on my hair in the past and I know that it does feel good. This was years ago when I didn’t understand the structure of hair. If you feel like your hair isn’t absorbing enough moisture, using a heat cap with a good conditioner containing humectants is a great alternative. You may even choose to add some extra glycerin, honey or aloe to your conditioner before you apply it. All these are readily available and adding just a tsp will make a difference. In the end it is your hair and your choice . Your hair will tell you what it likes or doesn’t like. Best wishes on your healthy hair journey!
Gavazzoni Dias M. F. (2015). Hair cosmetics: an overview. International journal of trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.153450